Alaska Auto Repair Shops

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AK Car Consumer Discussions

Re: Rear brakes 40% [paisan]: by xwesx on Thu Dec 04 08:37:03 PST 2008; Well, right. The rear pads are on par with your estimates, but the OP states the front pads are also original! First, 90% at 40,000 miles seems amazing, even to me ;) , but the question remains - why would they be wearing so slowly while the rear pads are wearing on par? As you stated.... very odd. :(

Re: winter mileage [w8ifi]: by xwesx on Thu Dec 04 08:33:18 PST 2008; I agree, Jim. I saw a noticeable jump in my fuel economy on a 2007 Outback w/ MT when I changed out the 5w-30 engine oil and 75w-90 gear lube (transmission & rear differential) with Amsoil 0w-30 engine oil and 75w-90 gear lube. Not only did the fuel economy instantly jump a little over 1 mpg in cold temps (they were about -25 at night up to around -10 during the day), but the car moved so much easier upon startup that it was as though temperatures were up around freezing! This car had a block heater and oil pan heater on the engine, but no heater(s) on anything else. With the previous fluids, there was significant rolling resistance for a few miles until the fluids heated up enough to lose much of that viscosity. With the Amsoil, the increased resistance due to cold temperatures was minimal. Currently, I am driving an old '98 Ford Escort w/ MT. I put Amsoil 0w-30 in this car as well, but the owner's manual states this car uses ATF in its manual transmission (?!).... seems odd, but I did not take the time to verify this and/or switch fluids. There is no heater on the transmission, and at temps as "warm" as -20F, the transmission is so gummy that it is difficult to maneuver the gear shifter. I went from an average economy of 35 this summer to as low as 24.5 (average for November) so far this winter. For my 1998 Dodge minivan, it was achieving mileage of about 15 mpg last winter with amsoil engine oil and Chrysler ATF+3 transmission fluid. This winter, with the same engine oil and Amsoil synthetic universal transmission fluid, it is running 16.5 to 17. What's more, that is with my wife driving it almost exclusively this winter, and she usually gets about 1 mpg less than I do as a result of driving habits. Last winter, I was the primary driver. ;)

Re: won't start when warm [Chris15961]: by xwesx on Thu Dec 04 08:17:22 PST 2008; Yeah, that is a tricky one.... Mine did this as well - for years. I always said that it was not an "errand" car, as you never knew when it was going to leave you sitting. My general rule for it was that if it failed to start after its normal 2-3 cranks, I would wait 5 minutes then try again. It would normally start the 3rd or 4th try (10-15 minutes of waiting), but sometimes would take as long as 30-40 minutes! That was okay during the summer, but very frustrating at -40F. :surprise: Ultimately, though, I ended up having the knock sensor go out. When that happened, I replaced the knock sensor and, on a whim, the crank and camshaft sensors at the same time. After that, I no longer had the cold start issues associated with the faulty knock sensor, but also had no more problems with the no-start situation. I have no idea whether doing this on yours would alleviate the problem for you or which sensor it was that may have actually been the root of the problem, but this was my experience. Good luck - I know how frustrating it is, especially because it would not throw a code in the computer and therefore no shop was able/willing to diagnose it. I spent hundreds of dollars on shops trying to figure this one out before I finally gave up and decided to live with it. If I knew I was going to only be at a place for 30 minutes or less, I would usually leave the car running to avoid having to deal with it. Four years passed before the knock sensor issue finally came along and fixing it had the very happy side effect of eliminating the no-start problem.

Re: Rear brakes 40% [gjksn]: by xwesx on Wed Dec 03 13:27:58 PST 2008; It might be an issue of adjustment. I am not familiar with disc brake adjustments, though, so I am really not sure what to check.

Re: Stocking Stuffer Time! [rsholland]: by xwesx on Wed Dec 03 13:03:49 PST 2008; Well, it is tough to find anything with such a low ceiling this year, Bob, but I'll try.... :P Thinking fun and utility, a 2009 STI (~$37,500) and a Honda Big Red (~$11,500) sounds pretty good. The "extra grand," as it were, should go pretty quick with a couple accessories on the Big Red. I was tempted to go for a bike this year, but could not pass up the revival of the Big Red. Heck, I have a 1984 Big Red (3-wheeler) that needs a big (little) brother, er... son, er... whatever. :)

Re: Rear brakes 40% [gjksn]: by xwesx on Wed Dec 03 12:51:12 PST 2008; If you have never had the front pads replaced, then I think that is rather odd. The fronts should always wear faster than the rears. If you have had the fronts replaced once, then the rear pads are on pace. The rear pads on my Subaru lasted about 30-40% longer than the front pads. I replaced the fronts at about 125,000 and the rears at around 192,000. Overall longevity, of course, is entirely situational. ;)

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